This is probably the implement most associated with Corporal Punishment. There is something very emotive about this traditional, English disciplinary tool. Part of the cane’s mysticism is the ritual and theatre associated with its application which is as much about psychological torment and fear as it is the actual beating. Making the condemned wait, sometimes hours or days in anticipation. The flexing of the rod as a scolding takes place. Then, finally, the rite itself: having the reprobate bent over a desk, or a chair, or perhaps touching their toes as the skirt is lifted and the panties lowered. Traditionally administered in half dozen batches ominously referred to as ‘six of the best’. Caning is an art that involves more than the technical ability to apply an accurate stroke – to master it you must understand its psychology. To the uninitiated, a caning may seem rather staid but I can assure you, a heavy caning is one of the most painful and intense forms of CP you can receive.

    There are many types of cane, which are actually tropical grasses, reeds or palms characterized by knuckles, nodes or joints where the new segment of growth shoots off. The Bamboo cane is probably the best known but it is not really suitable for CP as it is inflexible. (See Buying a Cane) The best types of cane to use are those that come from the climbing palm or rattan family as these have a flexible stem. There are enormous varieties of rattans, with innumerable differing qualities. The most popular varieties for making a punishment cane are Kooboo, Dragon, Palambang and Malacca.

    No two canes are ever identical, as they are natural products, grown, not manufactured. There are an endless variety of rattans. Thickness, flexibility, curvature, colouring and surface finish all vary. Often canes are named and graded by their increased length and thickness: Junior Cane 8mm diameter, Senior Cane 10mm and Reformatory Cane 12mm plus. Lengths usually range from 30in to 36in. Most standard canes are made from Kooboo. For more serious punishments try a Dragon cane as the rattan is denser and slightly stiffer than Kooboo. It also has a very smooth surface which helps it fly through the air faster. Another heavier implement is the ferrule originally a Victorian walking cane made from the very thick and heavy rattan Malacca. I have come across so-called ‘fibre-glass’ canes and ‘dressage or show’ canes (canes covered with leather), which are not really canes at all, both are very severe implements that I would suggest only advanced players consider using. Probably the fiercest canes are those used for Singapore judicial punishments, made from stripped manner rattan they are approximately 15mm thick and 50 inches long.

Crook or Straight Handle

    So why do canes have crook handles? I have to say I’m not exactly sure, as I have found lots of different explanations. One being that originally walking canes were used to beat people with so the crook handle is just a remnant of this. I have also read that the crook was used to stop the cane slipping out of the hands during a vigorous thrashing. The crook was also used to hang the cane up so it would be a constant reminder to errant young children. Well the crook handle is certainly associated with the school cane. I don’t think the handle makes much of a difference to the cane, many people just have a personal preference. Some straight canes have some kind of added handle, which does make them easier to use.

Short or long & thick or thin

    Canes come in a huge variety of lengths and thickness. I would suggest that a beginner use a short, lightweight cane. The longer the cane the more swing, the greater the arc, equaling a more painful stroke. Remember the longer the cane the more difficult it is to control. The weight of the cane changes the sensation and intensity of the stroke. The thinner the cane the more ‘stingy’ and biting it feels. While thicker canes are heavier, more ‘thumpy’ and tend to bruise the skin. With more weight they penetrate more deeply.

Caning Techniques

    Caning is probably one of the most revered of the disciplinary arts taking some time to perfect. A perfect cane stroke needs a minimum amount of effort, you don’t have to throw your whole body into it. In fact the greatest accuracy is achieved with the minimum variation of movement. This is probably one of the reasons as to why the cane is such a favoured disciplinary tool. The stature and strength of the disciplinarian is immaterial as it is one’s technique that is all-important (the cane is certainly a great equalizer for women). Before beginning a punishment with the cane, it is really advisable to have a very thorough warm up to help prevent serious bruises and cuts. Despite appearances canes are very severe implements, so never use full force blows as they may cause damage to underlying tissue and nerves.

    There are two different techniques to caning someone. Firstly with a ‘wrist only’ movement and secondly, with an ‘arm and wrist’ movement. I would suggest that beginners (and when caning in an area with limited space/height) should always use the wrist movement. It is also the stroke I prefer to use as it has a greater degree of accuracy. Hold the cane in your hand, tuck your elbow into your body and using only your lower arm, use a fast wrist motion to flick the cane at the target. If you cane without moving your wrist you cannot get any speed into the motion of the stroke or that lovely ‘swish’ noise, as you are not really using the flexibility of the cane.

    The ‘arm and wrist’ movement involves lifting up and bringing down your arm, putting the force of your shoulder behind the stroke, finishing the stroke with the wrist movement. The arm can move either up or out for this motion. Make sure you practice the movement and measure the stroke lots of times before beginning the punishment because with this technique it is easy to be inaccurate. If you have never caned someone before try holding the cane about a third of the way in, this makes it shorter, less flexible and easier to control. As you gain confidence move your hand out until eventually you are holding it at the end.

    After striking the bottom you can either follow through with a stroke that leaves the cane firmly planted on the buttocks or allow the cane to bounce back and lift away from the area. Following through will make the stroke more painful and ‘thumpy’, this is because you are passing on all the kinetic energy of the stroke into the buttocks. While lifting off does not dump as much energy onto the area.

    Another caning technique is that of ‘bastinado’ - a rapid continuous drumming of the skin often used for punishing the feet. In old Public School films I have seen the punisher run across a room to administer the stroke. I don’t personally believe this will make a great deal of difference to the stroke, (except to make it more difficult to be accurate). However, I am sure it does have some great psychological effect on the frightened recipient.

Where should you aim for?

    A proper cane stroke is really best suited for use on the fleshy buttocks. It can be used on other parts of the body but I suggest using a very short lightweight cane, with a building tapping motion. I would suggest that beginners aim to keep the tip of the cane in the middle of the furthest cheek. Once you are more confident keep the tip about two inches in from the outer edge of the bottom. Beware of over-shooting the target. Often when caning you can measure the stroke but will then over shoot this mark when putting your power behind the stroke. The highest cut should be just below the cleft of the buttocks and the lowest just along the crease where the bottom meets the legs